Bait tank

Tarpon guy · #1 08-26-2007, 07:46 PM

I started out pretty early on Saturday to pick up a shopping list to put together my live bait tank.

It ended up taking most of the day. The first Walmart I went to did not have the Attwood pump. I tried Boater's World and West Marine. West Marine had one, but the outlet on the pump was straight barbed and I wanted a threaded outlet. I found one at the Walmart in the Long Beach town Center on Carson St. They also had the drain 1/2" plugs. Home Depot in Lakewood was picked clean as far as PVC fittings were concerned. They were also a little short on tubing. I did some shopping there and the rest at a Home Depot in Long Beach.

This morning I picked up a 6 volt battery and on/off switch at Fry's in Fountain Valley.

Got it together and everything works well. It takes no time at all to build, just spent too much time finding parts. The thing about Home Depot and Walmart is that it's almost impossible to call ahead and see if they have something. Oh well...

I built mine like Piranha's. Very simple. I really liked the way he eliminated the whole discharge assembly. I'm a big believer that less is better. following his lead, I just drilled a series of small holes in the bucket, in a horizontal row and let the water cascade down the back of the bucket and then out the yak scupper holes.

I wanted an on/off switch, but Fry's didn't have a waterproof switch. I did find a rubber boot designed to fit over the toggle with a threaded ring incased in the rubber that screws onto the toggle housing. Once I soldered my leads, I painted the entire switch and leads with a thick coat of Marine Goop. It's anybodys guess how that will hold up, but it gives me time to find a better switch and still get my bucket wet.

I didn't have anything on hand to make the lid. I ended up getting two lids with my Home Depot 5 gallon bucket. I cut a hole in the one that would go on the bucket and cut a larger hole in the spare lid. The "hole" from this lid became the lid for the bait tank.

I picked up an anti-siphon valve from the Home Depot garden department. It turned out this one cannot be used on a suction system. It needs to have the fluid pumped through it. I'll make some calls and see what I can find tomorrow at work. If anybody has used one and knows the part number or general info. I'd appreciate the heads up. The valve in the picture is the one you don't want, in case anybody else is looking.

Here are a couple of shots from when I first got started. BTW, I used a brass hinge, nuts and bolts.

Might not be able to get out on the water again until Friday afternoon or Saturday. In any event, I'll be keepin' live bait when I do

seaslug · #2 08-26-2007, 10:47 PM

copied over from DPKM site:

A note on the switches. Mine quit when I was testing yesterday (after I finished charging the battery). Most of the standard toggle switches have a clip on each end under the bottom. You spread the clips, pull the switch apart and clean up everything that is dirty or corroded.

A "Q"-tip does a lot of the job. After that, take a sharp point or knife tip or small file and scrape/scratch the corrosion off the contacts. You should be able to disassemble the entire switch - just watch how it comes apart. Even heavy corrosion should be curable.

The "waterproof" switches are merely "water resistant". The standard switches will work for years and can be cleaned, probably once per season. Try not to soak them but don't stress over it.

If you need, ask and I will do it for you in the field or talk you through it on the phone.

Steve

Tarpon guy · #3 08-27-2007, 08:19 AM

Thanks Steve!

Piranha · #4 08-27-2007, 09:14 AM

Hey Bob, If it needs to have the liquid pumped thru it, why not put it on the other side of the pump, in the tube that puts the h2o into the tank? Then the pump will be pumping thru it! That might solve the problem. Let me know! Jerry/Piranha

Enquiring minds need to know!

:

Tarpon guy · #5 08-27-2007, 10:08 AM

Hey Jerry,

Good thought. Unfortunately, this valve is just a cheap simple design. It needs a little head pressure to function. No big deal though, I'll find one easy enough

mrJB · #6 08-27-2007, 07:50 PM

Tarpon Guy -
I have the "backflow preventer" that you have pictured and have been using it without problems for the past year. Mine is mounted below the pump, which draws water up from a scupper. My pump is 12 volt however, and, after the initial morning priming of the pump it goes all day, on and off (on a timer) while holding it's prime. One thing critical here is that there can not be any air leaks in the line or the pump will suck air instead of water. Threaded connections are not air-leak proof - use teflon tape.Maybe mine's working because of the 12v flow or ?? but that $3+ valve does work for me...
A few other things... a folding lid on the bait tank is not necessary if you have a rim on the top of the tank, i.e., the bait will swim up the side to get out but not jump directly out. In the future, you may reconsider the outflow rather than have scales, etc. all over. If you do, you will need 1 1/2" outlet for full 12 v flow, 1 1/4' for 6 v. or 12 v. on a timer...
The very simplist solution is a bilge pump on a 3' hose, (a "dragger") - no priming, cheaper to buy. The downside is that there is a noticeable bit of drag...
Hope this helps

John

mrJB · #7 08-27-2007, 07:51 PM

Tarpon Guy -
I have the "backflow preventer" that you have pictured and have been using it without problems for the past year. Mine is mounted below the pump, which draws water up from a scupper. My pump is 12 volt however, and, after the initial morning priming of the pump it goes all day, on and off (on a timer) while holding it's prime. One thing critical here is that there can not be any air leaks in the line or the pump will suck air instead of water. Threaded connections are not air-leak proof - use teflon tape.Maybe mine's working because of the 12v flow or ?? but that $3+ valve does work for me...
A few other things... a folding lid on the bait tank is not necessary if you have a rim on the top of the tank, i.e., the bait will swim up the side to get out but not jump directly out. In the future, you may reconsider the outflow rather than have scales, etc. all over. If you do, you will need 1 1/2" outlet for full 12 v flow, 1 1/4' for 6 v. or 12 v. on a timer...
The very simplist solution is a bilge pump on a 3' hose, (a "dragger") - no priming, cheaper to buy. The downside is that there is a noticeable bit of drag...
Hope this helps

John

PerryC · #8 08-27-2007, 07:59 PM

TG,
Alot of electronic whatevers sold as "waterproof" are really "water-resistant" in the real world. I dunno if it's labeling error or intentional some of the times. Most switches are NOT 100% waterproof. If they are installed to be waterproof/water-resistent, water will not under normal circumstances be able to contact the connection blades of the switch and it will have a rubber cover over the button or toggle to keep splash water from entering the internals.

You may not want to go this route, but I keep any switches inside an enclosure of some type like a waterproof box or in the dry bag with the battery. Looks plain Jane and you have to open something to access the switch, but I'll turn it on and leave it on all day so I'm not turning it off and on constantly.

For a anti-siphon valve, I would call the guys at Hooked On Kayaks in Huntington Harbor. They are the old Malibu Kayaks store. I was in there a few weeks ago and I believe they had the individual parts for making bait tanks for sale. The valve they use on their bait tanks works pretty good. Their phone is 562-592-0800 . Andy who runs the shop would probably be the best one to talk to as I think he has used a powered bait tank the most. Hope this helps,
Perry

mrJB · #9 08-27-2007, 08:21 PM

oops... sorry for the double post

Tarpon guy · #10 08-27-2007, 10:25 PM

Thanks guys, for all the tips!

I do have the drain plug installed.

Always use teflon tape! Good stuff. Almost as important in life as duct tape

If it is the same valve, I don't know how it is working. The row of vents around the male threaded end suck air and release water if you try to prime the pump and line. If you block the vents, it might work. Did you block the vents?

Thanks a bunch, Perry. I'll give the guys at Hooked on Kayaks a call, or go by there. I'd like to check them out anyway. I have a drybag for the battery, but I wanted to try the switch close to the pump, for ease of use.
I have a nice solid bubble of goop around the switch, so I think I'll see how it goes as an experiment. What the heck!

Great help from all of you guys. Thanks again